Artificial grass installed in Phoenix and the surrounding areas succeeds or fails beneath the surface. The infill that holds the fibres upright, the base rock that lets water drain away, and the preparation of the hard desert soil determine whether your turf will look good for years, shed water during a monsoon, resist pet odor, or settle into dips and puddles. This guide walks through each layer, from the soil up, so that you understand what goes under your turf, why it matters, and what to ask for in writing before installation begins.
Whether you are planning residential artificial grass installation, a pet turf and dog run, a pool surround, or turf on a patio or balcony, the foundation is the same: proper grading, a compacted base, the right infill, and finishing details that hold everything together. This guide is for homeowners who want to know what they are paying for and how to verify that the work is done right.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the turf surface and worked down into the fibres. It serves multiple purposes: it props the grass blades upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight so the turf does not shift in wind or under foot traffic, and it plays a role in drainage. The most common infill is silica sand, a fine mineral ballast that is inexpensive and effective. Silica sand is angular and settles firmly into the turf, but some homeowners prefer coated sand, which has been rounded and sometimes coloured to look less like sand and more like soil. Coated sand is gentler underfoot and moves slightly less over time, though it costs more than raw silica.
For pet areas, zeolite infill is often added to or blended with sand because it is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes odors. Antimicrobial and cooling infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, combine coated sand with additives designed to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in full sun. These specialty infills cost more but are worth considering in high-use pet areas or in yards where heat is a concern. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is standard on sports fields and athletic courts but is not recommended for residential yards or pet areas because of the heat it retains and the maintenance it requires. Your installer should specify the infill type and amount in writing before work begins, and explain why a particular infill is suited to your yard and how you plan to use it.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot, and the amount matters more than many homeowners realize. A typical residential turf requires between 2 and 4 pounds per square foot, depending on the pile height, face weight, and intended use of the product. The infill holds the fibres vertical, protects the backing from sun damage, and helps the turf drain properly. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts taken by budget installers: the turf may look acceptable at first, but without enough infill, the fibres will lean, mat down under foot traffic, and expose the backing to ultraviolet light, which degrades it. Puddles and odor problems often trace back to inadequate infill, because the turf cannot drain properly when the fibres are not propped up.
The exact amount depends on the turf product you choose. A dense, high-face-weight turf designed for heavy use may require 3.5 to 4 pounds per square foot, while a lighter residential product might work well at 2.5 to 3 pounds. Pet turf and play areas often call for the higher end of the range. Before you sign a contract, ask your installer to state the infill amount in writing, in pounds per square foot, and ask them to explain why that amount is right for your product and your use. If an installer cannot or will not give you this figure in advance, that is a red flag.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path to good drainage starts with removal of the existing lawn or old turf. If you have a bermuda lawn that has burned out or a dog run that has turned to mud, the old sod, roots, and organic debris must be cleared away. The soil beneath is then excavated to a depth that depends on the base material you will install, typically 3 to 4 inches. This is where Arizona 811 utility locates come in: before you dig, request a locate so that irrigation lines, low-voltage lighting wires, and pet-fence lines are marked. These private lines are not marked by the utility, so the installer needs to know where they are. Once the excavation is complete and the utilities are clear, the base rock or decomposed granite is laid and compacted.
For most residential yards, a weed barrier fabric is laid over the compacted base to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf. In some cases, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed on top of the base, especially in pet areas where extra cushioning and drainage help with odor, or on patios and balconies where the hard surface beneath needs protection. The turf is then laid over the prepared base. On concrete, a balcony, or a roof, the process is different: the turf is never glued flat to the slab, because water will pool underneath. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is laid first, and edge drainage is installed around the perimeter so water can escape. If your yard has a real water problem, such as poor site drainage or a low spot that holds water after a rain, the drainage issue must be addressed before turf is installed, or the project should not proceed.
Base Prep on Phoenix Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Phoenix sits on the flat Salt River Valley, where the natural soil is hard desert caliche and compacted silt that sheds water poorly. This is why base preparation is not optional. The existing surface, whether lawn, gravel, or hardpan, must be excavated and graded with a slope that directs water away from the house and away from any pool or structure. The excavation typically reaches 3 to 4 inches deep, and the hole is filled with a free-draining base material such as decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or crushed base rock. This material is then compacted in layers, or lifts, using a plate compactor or similar equipment, so that the base is firm and will not settle or shift under the weight of foot traffic and infill.
Proper compaction is the difference between a yard that drains and one that does not. An uncompacted base will settle unevenly, creating dips and low spots where water pools. These puddles breed odor, especially in pet areas, and they make the turf look uneven. A compacted base is also less likely to shift under the turf, which can cause seams to separate or the edges to lift. The compaction process takes time and the right equipment, which is why it is one of the places that cost-cutting installers cut corners. When you get a quote, ask whether the base will be compacted in lifts and with what equipment. If the installer plans to lay base material and skip compaction, or to compact it only once with a hand tool, you are looking at a foundation that will fail. A yard with real drainage problems, such as a low site or standing water after a monsoon, may need additional site grading or a drainage solution before the base is prepared. In those cases, we recommend addressing the drainage issue first or considering whether artificial turf is the right choice for that yard.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass is not waterproof. Water must drain through the turf and through the base beneath it, or it will pool, stain, and cause odor. The turf backing itself is either perforated, with small holes punched through it, or fully permeable, meaning water passes through the material itself without holes. Perforated backing is common and works well in most residential settings. Fully permeable backing drains faster and is often chosen for pet areas, sports fields, and play areas where heavy water load is expected. Drainage rate is measured in gallons per hour per square foot, and a typical residential turf drains at 15 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot. A product designed for pet areas or heavy use may drain at 40 gallons per hour per square foot or faster.
The real test of drainage is what happens during a monsoon downpour or after you rinse the turf to clean it or cool it down. A fast-draining turf product will still fail if the base does not drain. If the base is uncompacted, poorly graded, or made of material that holds water, the turf will sit on a wet foundation and odor will develop. This is why base preparation and turf drainage work together. On hard surfaces such as concrete, a balcony, or a roof, the situation is different. A draining underlay or pad is installed between the turf and the hard surface, and edge drainage around the perimeter allows water to escape. Without this layer, water will be trapped beneath the turf and the backing will degrade. Ask your installer what the drainage rate of your turf is, in gallons per hour per square foot, and ask them to describe how water will drain from your specific yard, whether through the base or through an underlay and edge drainage system.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a careful installation from a rushed one. Seams, where two pieces of turf are joined, are sealed with seam tape and an outdoor-grade adhesive. The grain of the turf, the direction the fibres lean, must be aligned so the seam is invisible or nearly so when you look across the yard. If the grain is misaligned, the seam will be visible from certain angles and will look unfinished. Seams are secured with nails or staples spaced at the right intervals, typically 6 to 12 inches apart depending on the product and the conditions. Too few fasteners and the seam will lift or separate, especially in heat or under foot traffic. The edges of the turf are also critical. The perimeter should be secured with nails or staples to bender board, a metal or plastic edging, or to the adjacent hard surface, so that the edge does not curl or lift. On turf-paver strips or around a pool, the turf is cut tight to the pavers or decking so water can drain away.
After installation, the turf is power broomed, which means it is brushed with a mechanical broom to stand the fibres up and distribute the infill evenly. This step takes time and care, and it is often skipped by installers in a hurry. A well-broomed turf looks fuller and more natural, and the infill is settled into the fibres rather than sitting on top. When you look at finished work, a visible seam, lifted edges, or a flat, unbroomed appearance tells you that the installation was not done with attention to detail. If you are considering repair of old turf, seams that are lifting or separating can often be re-sealed, and we offer turf repair and seam repair services.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any turf is ordered or installed, you should have a written specification that describes exactly what will be installed and how. This spec is your protection and your reference. It should include the name and product line of the turf, the fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, the compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be installed, the seam method and edge treatment, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period. The spec should also note any site-specific details, such as grading direction, special underlays, or edge drainage systems on hard surfaces.
A written spec does three things. First, it forces the installer to think through the job and commit to details, rather than making decisions on the fly. Second, it gives you a clear record of what you paid for, so you can verify that the work matches the plan. Third, it protects you if something goes wrong, because you have documentation of what was promised. If an installer balks at providing a written spec, or if they offer only a price per square foot with no detail, that is a sign that they do not plan to do careful work. We provide a written spec for every job, and we measure your yard on site to give you an accurate pricing range. If you are ready to move forward, contact us for a free estimate and we will walk through the spec and answer any questions you have about infill, base prep, drainage, and the details that matter.